A Photographer’s Guide to Emperor Akihito’s 83rd Birthday

The Japanese Imperial Family on the balcony of Chowaden Hall.
The Japanese Imperial family on the balcony of Chowaden Hall.

Visiting the Tokyo Imperial Palace on December 23

How often do you get the chance to photograph a reigning monarch from just fifty meters away? On December 23, 2016, I had that very opportunity. With my camera in hand, I joined a massive crowd heading to the Imperial Palace, hoping to capture Japan’s Emperor Akihito on his 83rd birthday. The day turned into a lesson in navigating unexpected weather, massive crowds, and the tricky reflections of palace windows. Here’s my story.

People wait in a gravel square to enter the Imperial Palace for the Emperor's 83rd birthday.
A huge crowd waits outside the Imperial Palace waiting to be let in.

Preparation: What to wear for a winter day in Tokyo

My first mistake happened before I even left home. It was a winter day, but an unseasonably warm one. Dressed in jeans, a jacket, and a scarf, I was completely unprepared for the weather. Upon arriving at the palace, I found myself surrounded by people in shorts and T-shirts. I was sweating and wished I had checked the forecast.

People walk across a iron bridge over a moat with a Japanese keep in the background.
People pour into the palace under the watch of Fushimi Keep.

Managing the Emperor’s birthday crowds

Despite my wardrobe mishap, the event itself was impressively well-organized. Security checks were smooth and painless, and the police efficiently managed the entry and exit of 33,300 visitors. While I appreciated the seamless logistics, the constant reminders of “Please keep moving. Don’t stand still to take pictures” were a challenge for a photographer.

People walk over a stone bridge with skyscrapers in the background.
Hold the camera up above your head and pray for a good shot when you click.

At the scheduled time, Emperor Akihito, looking well for his age, appeared on the Chowaden Hall balcony. The crowd erupted in cheers, raising their small Japanese flags high in the air. He was joined by his wife, Empress Michiko, his sons, their wives, and two of his granddaughters. In a brief speech, the Emperor thanked the public for their good wishes. He also expressed his concern for the residents of Itoigawa city in Niigata prefecture, where a large fire had recently destroyed many homes and businesses.

People walk under a Japanese keep at a castle.
Fushimi Keep watches over a never-ending stream of people

Photography tips: Beat glass reflections & distance

To maximize my chances of getting a good shot, I stayed for all three of the Emperor’s appearances. Not being the tallest person, I had to stand on my tiptoes to get my lens above the sea of heads and flags.

A crowd enters the Imperial Palace over a stone bridge with skyscrapers in the background.
Everyone has to wait their turn to enter the palace.
Japanese photographers on a raise platform wait for the Japanese Emperor to appear.
The Emperor’s birthday always draws interest from Japanese media.

An even bigger challenge was the glass on the balcony. No matter where I stood, the windows reflected a significant amount of light, making a clear shot difficult. I quickly learned that staying in one spot was not an option. Moving between his appearances was the key to finding a better angle. Fortunately, the police don’t usher you out of the main courtyard during the breaks. But, with so many people staying put, you have to be quick to claim a new spot while navigating the flow of those leaving.

A huge crowd wave Japanese flags on the balcony of Chowaden Hall at the Imperial Palace.
The Emperor appears and the crowd roars.

Recommended camera lenses for the emperor

This experience highlighted the limitations of my gear. My Pentax 18-135mm lens was simply not powerful enough for the distance. Every photo I took had to be deeply cropped to bring Emperor Akihito and his family to a reasonable size. I couldn’t help but notice the media photographers positioned behind me, armed with lenses that were at least 400mm. They had the professional equipment that comes with salaries and budgets, while I had to wait another five years to get a long zoom lens of my own!

Princess Masako and Prince Naruhito on the balcony of Chowaden Hall.
Naruhito and his wife, Masako when they were Crown Prince and Princess.

Is attending the Emperor’s Birthday worth it?

Attending Emperor Akihito’s birthday is a fantastic event for anyone interested in Japan’s Imperial family. Be prepared for massive crowds, as the family is incredibly popular, and people cherish any opportunity to see them in person.

Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko wave from the balcony of Chowaden Hall.
Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko wave to the crowd from the balcony of Chowaden Hall.

Editor’s note: Akihito abdicated the throne on 30 April 2019 so his title has become Emperor Emeritus. Learn more about his and his wife’s new roles on their official website. His son, Naruhito is now Japan’s Emperor. You can learn more about him on the official Imperial Household Agency website.

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