Koenji Awa Odori 2023: Return of a Tokyo Dance Festival

A dense crowd and Awa Odori dancers fill a Tokyo street under a large yellow archway framed by white lanterns.

Koenji Awa Odori 2023! Tokyo’s biggest dance festival was back after a four-year break. The pandemic put the brakes on many things, and this event was one of them. Anyway, I was happy it was back. For a moment, it seemed like the weather might spoil the long-awaited return. Rain threatened in the afternoon, but as evening approached, the clouds parted. The city seemed to collectively exhale; after four long years, it would have a perfect evening.

Two dancers in traditional white and blue kimonos and woven straw hats walk during the Koenji Awa Odori festival.

How big is Koenji Awa Odori 2023?

The Koenji Awa Odori is the biggest festival of its type in Tokyo. In 2023, it attracted 12000 dancers in 65 groups. A crowd of over one million cheers them on, which makes it a mega event. Like the Sanja Matsuri in Asakusa, it’s one of those things you should see at least once in your life!

Dancers in traditional pointed straw hats seen from behind during the Koenji Awa Odori festival.

Do you remember me going to the Shimokitazawa festival a week prior? That was small in comparison. But it’s not a worry as both events are full of energy and their own unique appeal. Everyone gives their best, dancers and crowd alike.

Dancers in straw hats and traditional dress perform on a city street during the Koenji Awa Odori festival.

Dancers in traditional kimonos and woven straw hats perform with hands raised during the Koenji Awa Odori.

What happens at the Awa Odori?

It’s interesting how the event proceeds. There is a course each group (or ren in Japanese) needs to follow. They start dancing at 5 p.m. and finish at 8 p.m.. The police have tight control over everything. It goes like clockwork.

Performers in pink kimonos and tall woven straw hats gather for the Koenji Awa Odori festival.

A man in a white and blue happi coat performs a lively Awa Odori dance during a Japanese street festival.

You can feel the vibration of the taiko drums deep in your chest as each group, a kaleidoscope of colorful yukatas, dances from one checkpoint to the next. The air fills with a mix of flutes, chanting, and the rhythmic clap of thousands of wooden sandals on the pavement. At the end of their section, they bow to the course and walk off.

Dancers in traditional straw hats perform under a yellow arch at night during the Koenji Awa Odori festival.

Then they make their way to the next area to dance another section. That repeats until they circle Koenji. Everyone moves along some big streets and through shopping arcades. It amazes me how smoothly it goes with 12000 dancers. Crowd control must be a nightmare!

Dancers in blue kimonos and headbands perform with yellow fans during the Koenji Awa Odori festival.

Maybe we shouldn’t be amazed. This was the 64th Koenji Awa Odori. The event’s organizers have everything down pretty well pat. I’ve been many times and have never seen a problem.

Close-up of a dancer in a pink kimono and traditional woven straw hat during the Koenji Awa Odori festival.

My photography gear for this shoot

Camera body: Fujifilm X-T3
Lenses:
- Fujinon XF 16-55mm F2.8 R LM WR
- Fujinon XF 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 R LM OIS

A dancer in a blue headband stands among performers in purple kimonos at the Koenji Awa Odori festival.

Dancers in pink and blue kimonos and straw hats perform a synchronized routine during the Koenji Awa Odori.

Is the Koenji Awa Odori worth it?

Koenji Awa Odori is awesome. It’s not quite as intimate as Shimokitazawa, but with one million people, what do you expect? But if you like this type of event, you should go. It is the biggest dance festival in Tokyo and is tremendously fun. Years from now, I think the sound will be what I remember most, the thunder of the drums echoing along the streets. Take your camera and you’ll get great photos.

Dancers in pink and blue kimonos and woven straw hats perform with hands raised during the Koenji Awa Odori.

Reflecting on my festival photo style

I published these photos in 2026, 3 years after the event. Looking at them now, I realized something. Most of my shots were of the women! This was not intentional, but a combination of factors. One is the amigasa dancers, the performers in straw hats and kimonos, look great. Generally speaking, most photographers focus on them which is understandable. I didn’t choose them intentionally, but I probably did so subconsciously. It’s something I need to pay attention to in future. All the performers at the event need equal recognition for their efforts.

Awa Odori dancers in blue kimonos and straw hats perform with hands raised during a nighttime street festival in Japan.

Planning your own visit

This article covers the 2023 festival. For everything you need to know about attending, including dates, photo spots, and insider tips, head over to our guide [Koenji Awa Odori: Tokyo’s Biggest Summer Dance Festival] which also contains links to more photo galleries.