Surviving the Sumida River Fireworks Festival

Do you want to see Tokyo’s biggest fireworks festival and one million spectators? That sounds like a recipe for disaster for a people-shy photographer like me. In July 2016, armed with a camera, I braved the throngs and went to the Sumida River to photograph it. A night of thunderous explosions followed. I survived and got my
photos in the end.

What happened at 2016 Sumida River Fireworks
The number of people at the event shocked me. I found out later that the audience numbered 957,000! It is the biggest fireworks festival in Tokyo. It’s an enormous tourist attraction.
This event takes the word crowded to a new level. It is insane. Stay away from the Sumida River Fireworks if you dislike being shoulder to shoulder with many strangers. But I had a regret that night. I didn’t stop to take pictures of the crazy number of people. I needed to find a spot for my camera before the fireworks started.

I was lucky. From my spot, I could see enough of the fireworks. Over 20,000 rockets went skyward to create a rainbow of colors above. They were spectacular and noisy! The explosions were nonstop for two hours. They were so loud that some people wore earplugs.
One thing surprised me. I saw so many cameras on tripods. The Hashiba area had a sea of them. Did everyone bring one?

Fireworks survival tips
The Sumida fireworks are in the summer. It will be hot and humid so dress for comfort and keep hydrated. Make sure to take some drinks with you.
The impressive art of Japanese crowd control
You might think that such a huge number of people created pandemonium for getting home. Well, crowd control was impressive. The police knew their job. They placed their big buses so people couldn’t wander into side streets and get lost. That funneled everyone in the right direction, back to the train stations.

Where to watch the festival?
There are many options. Two popular places are the Taito Riverside Sports Center and Komagata Bridge. If they are too crowded, keep walking until you find a spot. You’ll find something.
Pro tip: Check Google Maps satellite view to scout open for areas near the river.

Sumida River Fireworks information
When is it? It’s held on the last Saturday of July. The next one will be July 25, 2026.
Cost: Free
How to get there: Take the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, Toei Asakusa Line, or Tobu Skytree Line to Asakusa Station, or the Toei Asakusa Line to Honjo-Azumabashi Station.

Was it worth it? Final thoughts
The Sumida River Fireworks (official website) are fantastic despite the huge crowds. Yep, they made me uneasy, but I’ll go again. My Pentax 18-135 mm lens lacked reach and low-light performance. It struggled. I’d love to get better photos. Hopefully, that will happen one day.
By the way, did you know the Sumida River is famous for cherry blossoms? It is one of Tokyo’s most popular spots for hanami. When you visit the city in spring one day, check them out.
