Shimokitazawa Awa Odori 2023

I was finally at Shimokitazawa Awa Odori 2023. After a five-year wait, I was finally back. The sound of taiko drums echoed through the narrow streets I hadn’t walked on since 2018.

This wasn’t just any festival but an explosion of noise, color, tradition, dance and music. For a photographer, it was a dream and a challenge. Here’s how I navigated this beautiful event that year.

Awa Odori dancers in black happi coats and amigasa hats pose during the Shimokitazawa Awa Odori 2023.

The spectacle in the streets

What makes this Awa Odori special is the venue itself. Shimokitazawa is known for its artsy, bohemian vibe. Its narrow streets are a labyrinth of vintage clothing stores, record shops, and bars.

During the festival, this cramped layout isn’t an obstacle; it’s a feature. Everyone comes together, creating an electric, friendly atmosphere unique to this part of Tokyo.

Energetic dancers in red happi coats parade through a crowded street under glowing lanterns at Shimokitazawa Awa Odori 2023.

Into these streets pours the Awa Odori, a joyous spectacle with debatable origins but an undeniable energy. The festival has been linked to everything from Buddhist rituals to castle celebrations. Today, it is a nationwide phenomenon.

Groups of choreographed dancers and musicians, known as ren (連), weave through the crowds. Accompanied by the sounds of shamisen, taiko drums, and flutes, they chant and sing in a vibrant, colorful procession. Learn more in [Shimokitazawa Awa Odori Guide for Photographers].

Expressive Awa Odori dancer in a red happi coat and dramatic eye makeup holds a fan high during Shimokitazawa Awa Odori 2023.

With such a huge crowd crammed into such a cramped place, photography can be hard. You might be squeezed between several people, making it hard to even lift your camera.

So, you move to another area and get forced to the back, but someone tall is standing in front of you, forcing you to raise your camera over their head to shoot. Thankfully, my Fujifilm X-T3 had a titling viewfinder, making composition somewhat easier.

Women in amigasa straw hats and colorful yukata parade through the Shimokitazawa Awa Odori 2023 festival.

But if you persevere, something good can happen. The friendly crowd, for instance, led to a memorable moment. I was shooting from behind two lovely ladies, and they saw my camera and insisted I take their spot to get better photos.

Taiko drummers in red happi coats and eye makeup strike large drums during a spirited Japanese street festival at dusk.

Smiling man in a happi coat holds a fan and bamboo pole at a Japanese street festival with dancers in straw hats.

Is the Shimokitazawa Awa Odori worth it?

The Shimokitazawa Awa Odori 2023 was a reminder that challenges can create the best photographic opportunities. Low light and tight crowds create intimate, energetic atmospheres. It was a night of incredible memories and a few good frames for me. And a week later, I attended the even larger Koenji Awa Odori!