A 2021 Chrysanthemum Study at Zenyoji Temple

Archival Note: This post was originally published in November 2021. It is presented here as part of the Tokyo Snapped archive, documenting one of the city’s many flower festivals.

There are days when you set out to document a location, and then there are days when you simply get lost in the viewfinder.

In November 2021, I visited Zenyoji Temple in Edogawa. I had heard of its legendary 600-year-old pine tree and its sprawling grounds. However, the moment I stepped into the courtyard and saw the Kiku Matsuri (Chrysanthemum Festival), the rest of the world disappeared. I spent my time just inches away from the petals, ignoring the architecture and the crowds entirely.

The art of the kiku

Japanese Chrysanthemums are not just flowers; they are sculptures. They are groomed, pinned, and trained into shapes that defy nature. For a photographer, they offer an endless variety of patterns—from the sharp, needle-like petals of the Kudamono variety to the massive, rounded domes of the Atsumono.

Why Zenyoji is a photographer’s dream

• Space to breathe: Unlike the crowded festivals in central Tokyo (like Yushima Tenjin), Zenyoji offers enough physical space to work. I could set up my shots without the pressure of a queue forming behind me.
• A “local” atmosphere: The quiet nature of the temple allowed for a more meditative shooting experience. There were no neon signs or modern distractions—just the flowers and the soft autumn light.

The 2021 archive: A color study

Looking back at these 11 images five years later, I am struck by the color rendition. The 2021 season was vibrant, and the care taken by the Edogawa locals to cultivate these blooms was evident in every petal.

While I didn’t capture the “big picture” of the temple that day, these images serve as a focused archive of a specific Japanese tradition. Sometimes, as photographers, we don’t need the wide shot to tell the story of the season.

Visitor information: Location, access, costs, & hours

• Location: 2-24-2 Higashikoiwa, Edogawa City, Tokyo.
• Access: A pleasant 15-minute walk from the south exit of JR Koiwa Station (Sobu Line). If you have lots of heavy gear to carry, think about taking Keisei Bus 72 to the ‘Zenyoji’ stop.
• Admission: Free.
• For the most up-to-date information, consult the official Zenyoji website.
• Here is the temple on Google Maps:

Is Zenyoji and its chrysanthemums worth it?

If you are an overseas photographer visiting Tokyo in November, put Zenyoji on your list—but learn from my experience! Spend an hour on the flowers, then look up and enjoy the rest of this historic site.

What about you? Do you prefer capturing the “Big Picture” of a location, or do you find yourself getting stuck in the macro details like I did? Let’s discuss in the comments below.

My photography gear for this shoot

• Camera body: Fujifilm X-T3
• Lenses:
  • Fujifilm XF 16-55mm F2.8 R LM WR
  • Fujifilm XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS WR