This is my photo guide for Zoshigaya Cemetery, an unusual Tokyo photo spot. Some might think it a rather morbid place, but not me. The forest-like atmosphere and fascinating tombstone architecture bring the place alive.
This cemetery is perfect for a walk or photography. Many of the people who rest there contributed to the making of modern Japan.
Zoshigaya Cemetery’s atmosphere
The grounds are spacious and peaceful. Tall trees cover most of its ten acres. The skyscrapers of Ikebukuro fill the gaps between their trunks. Close to one another are these two opposites: one vibrant with life, the other its demise.
Look at it on a map. Everything might appear in neat rows. But from ground level, from my eye at least, clutter is everywhere.
Yes, the graves are in rows, but the size and shape of each can vary. Walking through a jigsaw puzzle might be a suitable analogy.
Did someone think a forest was a good place for graves? Maybe. They certainly didn’t worry about the design or future expansion needs. Possibly that was how they did things a long time ago. Aoyama and Yanaka cemeteries are similar.
These cemeteries opened in the 1870s. A proper city plan didn’t exist in those days. What we see now might be a reflection of those times. Even Tama Cemetery, which opened later, is the same.
I love Zoshigaya’s graves! Some have a simple, sculpted rock. Tall rectangular granite gravestones are on others. A few are dome-shaped. The sky is the limit for Japanese grave design! There is much variation. You could spend hours browsing or photographing them.
One white marble tombstone has pink cherry blossom petals carved into it. Ornamental lanterns, pagodas, angels, and even a teddy bear sprinkle the grounds.
Some people made theirs unique. The character for “love” on tombstones isn’t uncommon. A few have something witty written in English.
A piece of trivia for you! Some graves at Japanese cemeteries, such as Zoshigaya, have a little postbox. Visitors can place their business cards in them to let the deceased’s family know who came. Do they get used often? I have no idea, but they’re there!
Famous people in Zoshigaya Cemetery
Many of the people contributed to Japanese history. Some of them are:
- Lafcadio Hearn – an English writer. His collection of Japanese legends and ghost stories is world-famous. He became a naturalized citizen of Japan, and his wife, Setsu, lies next to him. His gravestone carries his Japanese name, “Yakumo Koizumi.”
- Kikunae Ikeda – Japanese chemist who discovered the chemistry behind umami. He was a co-founder of Ajinomoto.
- John Manjiro – real name, Manjiro Nakahama. He was one of the first Japanese to visit the United States and was later an important translator.
- Soseki Natsume – if you are into Japanese literature, visit this tomb. Zoshigaya Cemetery is in his book Kokoro (1914).
- Ginko Ogino – Japan’s first Western-trained female doctor. Her grave is one of my favorites. The statue is tremendous.
- Hideki Tojo – the 40th Prime Minister of Japan and army general. He was executed at Sugamo Prison, which was in nearby Ikebukuro.
How to find famous peoples’ graves
There are two ways. One is to go to the administration building and pick up a map. They are in English and Japanese. The graves of fifty (50) people are on it, some of whom are ultra-famous and some are not.
You can also walk around the cemetery and look for nameplates. Not every grave has one, but the more famous ones do.
The nameplates are green and fixed to a stake. On them is the name of the person and their occupation in English and Japanese. Unfortunately, this method relies on luck. The maps are the best idea.
Photo spots near Zoshigaya Cemetery
- Gokokuji (an Edo-period temple)
- Higo Hosokawa Garden (an Edo-period park)
- Saint Mary’s Cathedral (a stainless steel church, home of Tokyo’s Roman Catholic community)
- Sunshine 60 Observatory Tenbou Park in Ikebukuro
Is Zoshigaya Cemetery worth photographing?
If you enjoy cemetery photography, check out Zoshigaya. You’ll document the resting places of important historic people in a serene nature with the skyscrapers of Ikebukuro as a backdrop. Your photos will tell a more interesting story than the usual tourist spots.
Do you want to see more of Tokyo’s graveyards? Check out [Tokyo’s Historic Cemeteries]. It will give you all the information you need to know.
